Space is sophisticated, but food is inconsistent

By DANA CRAIG
Published: January 1, 2009

I wish I had studied Rivers Ridge's logo a little more carefully before plunking down quite a bit of cash on two meals I'd rather forget. If I had, maybe I would have been warned of this new western Henrico County eatery's bipolar personality.

Allow me to explain. Rivers Ridge's logo consists of two Rs, set back to back in an elegant serif font. While I'm assuming the intention was to create a visually symmetrical statement of refinement, to me the reflection symbolizes the inconsistency in service and food currently plaguing this establishment.

Located in the former home of Graffiti Grille and owned by Bill Cabaniss, the well-known restaurateur behind Cabo's Corner Bistro, Rivers Ridge has outdone itself in turning the previously neon and graffiti-laden extravaganza into a soothingly sophisticated space.

Peach-colored walls cast a warm glow across mahogany booths and tables set with white linens and fresh tulips. A frosted divider, decorated with that telling logo, divides the dining area from the contemporary bar lined with flat-screen TVs and cross-hatch wine racks.

During my first visit, a waiter clearly trained in the art of fine dining and proper wine service greeted us with ease, albeit a bit showy, and presented the rather significant wine list. Bottles range from $24 to $148 and are divided by varietal, including everything from 2006 Cakebread Chardonnay to 2005 Barboursville Octagon VIII.

We started with fried calamari ($9) and braised beef short ribs ($10). Crispy, tender and nicely breaded, the calamari was plentiful but surprisingly bland. While the molasses sauce added a nice accent to the garnish of butternut squash, the ribs themselves were overcooked yet still fatty. How? I'm not sure.

With most meat and fish entrees hovering around the $20-plus mark, I'd expect them to outshine the less expensive pastas. Not the case.

The tenderloin and mushroom fusilli pasta ($18) was a garlic-laden, creamy delight, minus the overcooked meat. The mushrooms along with oven-roasted tomatoes, Italian parsley and marsala cream sauce provided enough earthiness that the meat should have been omitted all together.

The spice-crusted tuna with cucumber yogurt sauce ($22) was like nothing I've ever had or would want to have again. Rare inside yet encased in a white-ish, gummy "crust," it tasted like plastic, the only flavor coming from the refreshingly light sauce.

I returned the next night to see if my first visit had been a fluke. With a bigger crowd, the atmosphere was more festive, but the service was not.

Over the course of the meal, our server was confused by the wine list, botched the pouring, left with the cork, brought it back, then took it away, checked in before we'd taken a bite, didn't ask if we wanted dessert and pushed us out with a hasty delivery of the check.

This time we tried crab dip au gratin ($12) with house-made crackers and potato chips. Topped with inconsistently cooked breadcrumbs, the dip was in desperate need of seasoning and salt. Had the chips not been cold and chewy, their saltiness would have been a perfect pairing.

The pan-seared scallops ($19) with pecan pesto, banana browned butter sauce and yams turned out to be as unsettling as it sounded. While the scallops were nicely cooked and the pesto added an interesting earthy-pungent touch, the brown sugar- and nutmeg-accosted yams and bananas foster-esque sauce should have been on the dessert menu.

Veal cutlets ($25), however, were the one highlight of both meals. Lightly breaded and topped with true lump crab, the veal was wonderfully tender. Paired with roasted tomato mashed potatoes, a zingy and unique take on a usually boring side, this entrée would be worth getting again if the kitchen can temper the overly vinegary quality of the béarnaise sauce.

While its atmosphere implies elegance and refinement, Rivers Ridge is currently too inconsistent to live up to the prices on its menu. High-end clientele willing to pay those prices deserve proper training in both ends of the house. .

Tags relating to this article:

• weekend - 613 articles
• rivers ridge - 2 articles
• restaurant review - 31 articles
• dana craig - 59 articles

Can't find what you're looking for? Try our quick search: