DEAR ACCIDENTAL CHEF: Last week, I went to the grocery store to stock up on salt for cooking, and I saw regular table salt, kosher salt and sea salt. I didn't know which one to get, so I got all three. What is the difference, and is one better than the other? -- Salty Dog in Chester

DEAR SALTY: You have raised an excellent question. Salt tastes like salt, right?

You can sprinkle some on your eggs in the morning or add a teaspoon or two when cooking and baking; so what's the difference between a box of regular old Morton's and a 4-ounce container of French Fleur de Sel retailing for $10, outside of price?

There are differences, and there are similarities.

In terms of similarities, the first is the chemical makeup of salt in general. Nearly all salts are at least 97 percent sodium chloride, whether they are harvested by mining underground (as in table salt), culled from the sea (as in sea salt) or employ either method (as with kosher salt).

Another more obvious similarity is the flavor that salt imparts and/or brings out of a particular dish. Whether you're adding a small pinch to your cookie dough recipe, brining pickles for canning or simply sprinkling a little coarse salt over a super-tender filet mignon before grilling, one culinary truth prevails: Salt elicits flavor.

Salt also extracts water from certain foods before and during the cooking process. For example, sprinkling a little salt on either side of a burger before cooking will help draw more moisture out of the beef, which will result in a better exterior char when grilling or searing.

Same goes for vegetables. The next time you decide to grill a little zucchini or sliced eggplant, sprinkle salt on each side beforehand and let the vegetables sit for 10 minutes. Eventually, you will see bits of condensation forming on the outside of the vegetable as the salt draws the water out.

Wipe down your veggies with a paper towel and toss with some olive oil. Then grill them. You'll notice that your vegetables are crisper and more caramelized because much of the water has been drawn out before cooking.

Now, for the differences.

The main difference between types of salt is texture. Table salt, with its super-fine granules, is great for baking because it dissolves quickly. Sea salt and kosher salt have larger, more irregular grains, which make them excellent choices for sprinkling on foods at the last minute and often lending a nice, unexpected crunch.

Salt also has its own distinctive method of harvesting, which affects flavor and texture. Table salt, or iodized salt, is mined from underground salt deposits. Table salt crystals are very fine and have a somewhat strong taste, so a little goes a long way.

Kosher salt is mined in a similar fashion, yet it contains no preservatives. During the harvesting process, it is raked to give it a coarser, more blocklike structure.

Kosher salt can also be harvested from the sea. It is considerably less dense than table salt, which makes it excellent for sprinkling over foods at the last minute or adding a dash here and there when cooking.

Highly coveted sea salt is harvested from salt water collected from the ocean or sea. Because of this, sea salt tends to have a much higher natural mineral content, which affects its flavor and color; hence, why some sea salts are white, while others are gray or pink.

Sea salt tends to be pricier than most salts; because of this, it is often used in moderation and thought of as more of an afterthought than an ingredient. Adding sea salt to a voluminous dish, such as a soup or stew, can cause its texture and flavor to be lost.

Whether your preference is Hawaiian red salt or Himalayan pink salt, always remember to taste your dish before adding salt. Over-salting a dish often results in a ruined one.
Kendra Bailey Morris is a Richmond-based food writer, culinary instructor and author of "White Trash Gatherings: From-Scratch Cooking for Down-Home Entertaining" (Ten Speed Press). Send ideas, tips or culinary questions to info@theaccidentalchef.net or visit www.theaccidentalchef.net.