•SLIDESHOW: More photos of Manakin Grill

For some, the only fitting accompaniment to the pucker-inducing tang of a North Carolina-style barbecue sandwich is the ripe black-cherry finish of a 2001 Opus One.

For others, the only thing that can improve an already beautiful New Zealand braised lamb shank is the frosty glory of an ice-cold Bud Light.

Whatever your dining eccentricities, Manakin Grill has you covered.

Situated behind a gas station a few miles west of Short Pump, this unassuming eatery is easy to overlook.

It isn't new. Besides abiding by the seasons, the style of its menu hasn't changed much over the years. And no scandalous shake-up has taken hold of the kitchen hierarchy.

In fact, everything here is rather peachy.

So why am I talking about it? Because every time I go, I find something new that's impressive.

For starters, chef-owner Darrin Witten has assembled one of the more impressive wine lists in town. Comprising hundreds of bottles, the choices ($21-$370) range from completely reasonable (2002 Blackstone Cabernet Sauvignon, $29) to well-priced (2004 Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc, $45) to wine connoisseur-status (2001 Penfolds "Grange," $350).

Wine Spectator has given the restaurant its Award of Excellence six years running.

But don't expect Manakin Grill to be stuffy as a result.

This is a place where servers deem house-smoked wings ($9.99) the best appetizer, where it's common to see an old-timer decked out in suspenders and plaid shirt sharing a large table with several generations of family. It's aplace where black-and-white photos of Goochland County's history rim the humble yet cozy dining room.

This is not a place to judge the quality of food by the number of denim-clad customers or the level of pretense by the number of vintage varietals. Manakin Grill is the happy medium between down home and upscale.

Take our starter, for example. Coconut shrimp ($11.50) is found on menus far and wide, but rarely do you find them cloaked in perfect golden brown nests studded with thick shavings of coconut singing with sweetness. Thai chili sauce gave each succulent bite an added punch of spicy and tart.

Like the wine list, entrees range from familiar -- such as the North Carolina-style barbecue sandwich ($9.99) we ordered for a take-home lunch the next day -- to conservative with a twist -- such as Mongolian Glazed Pork Chop ($25.99), Manakin Grill's most popular dish -- to altogether unexpected -- such as Jerk Escolar ($24.99).

The 14-ounce pork chop was as hefty in flavor as it was size, the only disappointment being the advertised yet seemingly forgotten Chinese mustard topping. Without this expected heat, the hoisin glaze was slightly cloying.

The saltiness of accompanying sautéed bok choy and just-garlicky-enough mashed potatoes helped even out the dish's overall flavor.

The luxuriously rich yet flaky escolar -- think swordfish, only fattier -- was accented with just enough jerk seasoning to add depth but not overpower. Pineapple sauce pooled around the plate, uniting unfortunately dry basmati rice and an addictively buttery tangle of julienne vegetables in flavor harmony. (Escolar, regardless of who prepares it, can cause gastric problems for some people. You might want to read up on it before you order it in any restaurant.)

Manakin Grill's down home-meets-upscale vibe carried over into service. Our server was the epitome of Southern hospitality, right down to waxing poetic about the wings, but she also was able to detail the wine list like a practiced sommelier.

Intrigued by the concept, we ended with Fried Banana Cheesecake ($5.99). Dusted with cinnamon and sugar, these crispy triangles were filled with what seemed more like melted banana custard rather than decadent cheesecake. Definitely tasty, but I couldn't shake the image of the state fair.

Like our dinner, the next day's barbecue sandwich was also a treat. Tickling both taste buds and nostrils with a brawny apple cider vinegar tang, the pulled pork was doused in plenty of saucy deliciousness. Homemade sweet potato chips were lightly salted and sliced so thin they melted in our mouths.

Not everyone pairs beer with barbecue and Cab with filet mignon. If, like me, you don't equate pretense with a well-prepared meal, Manakin Grill's diverse drink selections, conservatively eclectic menu and genuine friendliness should be right up your alley.